Bariloche – loads of lakes in the star of Argentina’s Lake District

After non-stop action in Torres Del Paine & El Chalten, I was due for a letdown. And I don’t mean I was let down at all by San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina Patagonia’s Lake District. Not at all. I loved Bariloche. Perhaps that was part of the problem. What I mean is every now & then when traveling, you need a break or a vacation from doing anything. At least I do. And I found myself in the perfect place to do nothing. I stayed for a week & did nothing for the first 4 days but sleep in, aimlessly wander the city taking in the gorgeous lake & mountain views, sit in cafes & read non-travel books, eat at delicious restaurants, drink beers at various cervecerias, you get the drift. I think I was also pretty physically exhausted so both a mental & physical rest was called for. 
After lazing about for a bit, I then finally found my motivation to visit the surrounding lakes & mountains, super excited to do some trekking. Only then, my body decided that it had enough trekking. Specifically, my shitty knee. In true Scarlett O’Hara fashion, my knee threw itself on the ground dramatically & refused to go on. It actually felt like a sadistic hiking partner was at the same time repeatedly stabbing & sledgehammering my knee with every bend & step (a slightly less intense version of this is what finally forced my dumbass to stop running years ago). Unfortunately, this happened 2.5hrs into a 9hr trek. I stubbornly continued on for 30mins before my sensibilities took over. Thankfully, the trek was a wonky “Y” route & I had just passed the intersection, so after a brief rest, I reversed track & hobbled back down to take the different (longer) leg back (I may be in pain but I’d still rather limp past different scenery than backtrack). My knee performed rather valiantly & significantly better than anticipated for 3wks as I beat the shit out of it so I really can’t complain. It unfortunately meant I skipped another difficult hike I had my heart set on & a long biking circuit. Bummer. Instead I joined a little tourist minibus which isn’t necessarily how I prefer to explore an area, but oh well. Limitations are a part of life. And Bariloche is beautiful. 

There’s a good reason why this view atop Cerro Campanario outside of Bariloche is included in several “top 10 views of the world” lists






On my return hike after my knee crashed, I was alone for much of the hike. Well I saw very few humans. There were a couple instances where I heard something that sounded big & loud rustling trees near me & I was almost positive I at one point heard what sounded like a very big cat. I remembered back in the day reading some random article about what to do when you encounter a bear vs a big cat so I made a lot of noise & really rustled nearby trees & bushes to make myself seem a lot bigger than I am. Nothing ever happened & I never saw anything so I convinced myself I was totally crazy & laughed as I went on my way. And then as I was finishing the hike, I passed 3 guys who asked if I met any pumas. Pumas? No. Then I saw the sign above warning you against hiking alone & I came to the park ranger’s station only to find all of the entrances to the trail (recall I had started at a different point quite a ways away) blocked off with cautionary tape, the ranger was holding a mini-press conference answering questions for a group of 20 gathered, & I only then recalled hearing a helicopter about 2hrs before. I didn’t stop to ask about the hoopla bc I frankly didn’t want to know. But I am pretty darn positive I heard a big cat & super glad I didn’t see one. Funny thing is, Bariloche has several great city, national park & trekking info offices in the city & I went to all of them trying to sort out what I wanted to do & every single one of them recommended this trek, including the alternative ending, & said nothing at all about danger hiking alone. So I’m sure all of the commotion was for nothing & I have a wild imagination.
City beach

5 thoughts on “Bariloche – loads of lakes in the star of Argentina’s Lake District

  1. You do know how to tell a story. 😳 I was wondering how your knee was holding up with all of this hiking. That’s answered. And no – you don’t have that wild of an imagination. You survived a puma sighting.

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  2. Wow Angie, that was a close one. I bet Mom’s heart skipped a beat on both knee & puma! 😳
    Have you heard any great salsa/tango/jazz music or seen/done any dancing along the way?

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    1. Ha that’s why mom doesn’t know about these things until long after the fact when everything’s just fine. And yes, I’ve seen & heard a lot of great music down hear. More salsa so far but I look forward to going to a tango show in Buenos Aires in a couple weeks.

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