Rewind… to Trinidad

It’s not often to be lucky enough to find yourself smack dab in the center of profound world changing events so I haven’t had time to post some already written blog entries on Trinidad, the hippest place to visit outside of Havana & only a short 1.5hr bus ride from Cienfuegos. It’s a lovely city set in a valley surrounded by Cuba’s version of mountains. It has small winding cobblestone streets w very picturesque vistas of lovely colored casas against the lush green mountains, that is, if you can stop watching your feet for fear of tripping & falling flat on your face due to the vastly uneven cobblestones. I wandered for hours in local hoods past parks w kids playing. Came across kids flying kites – right above the same power lines which seem to have made a habit of collecting a lot of former kites. I guess no one really does ever learn. Or they think they can beat it. 
There’s a lovely town square Plaza Mayor & nearby a big wide set of stone steps perfect for people watching & after 10pm nightly, the steps are transformed into the music center of the city w multiple salsa singing & dancing acts performing while competing storefront bars selling “the best mojitos in the world” allow you to enjoy a cocktail while taking in the scene. My one gripe w the music scene in Trinidad is it was very clearly catering only to tourists, no locals. In both Havana & Cienfuegos, I found higher quality music in venues w a good mix of tourists & locals so you felt like you were experiencing real Cuba. But I think I’m in the minority here as everyone seemed to absolutely love it. 
The primary thing about Trinidad that left a lot to be desired was the food. I read somewhere that in 2011, before the change in laws regarding private restaurants, there were 3 private restos. Now there are over 90. So it seems as if everyone is trying to throw their hat in the game & reap the awards that come w increased tourism. It certainly doesn’t mean they all have good food. Far from it. The best meal I had in Trinidad was cooked by my friendly casa owners as I found even the LP recommended restaurants to be shit. It really is a beautiful city but between the food & what seems to be a nonstop focus on making a buck, I wonder if the city has lost some of its local charm due to its newfound trendiness. Havana & Cienfuegos had loads of it. I’m hopeful it will sort itself out w time. 

Some of you know I stink at taking selfies bc I don’t ever do it so you’re lucky the intended tower is in the photo & I’m somewhat looking at the camera. After a summer full of rainbow colors (pink, purple & Cub blue), my early-retirement-hair in Cuba has essentially faded back to platinum w a hint of pale blue & purple near the roots. I’ve found the platinum isn’t super ideal in a country full of Latin men. So I try to keep it hidden everyday under my new World Series Cubs cap that’s quickly getting broken in & I certainly intend to return to my natural brown before South America bc the attention is just ridiculous.

I was awakened at 7am to what sounded like a marching band & found this outside my casa. After they finished playing a few songs, they all started drinking rum. A lot of it. At 7:15. I have no idea. Nor did my casa owners. https://youtu.be/6u7y3tn9Nmk

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