The Mekong

We negotiated w a cute Laos boat captain, Mr Sing, for a day trip to Kuang Si waterfalls and Pak Ou caves via a Mekong river cruise. We arrived at the river bank and boarded our apparently private large long boat (we had just assumed he’d try to fill the rest of the boat… but we’ve found Laos people to be more honest and less apt to scam you than Thai folks). Despite the weather being a bit on the cool side (70), with some intermittent light rain sprinkles early in the morning, we were real excited for the trip. The boat was a convertible as the roof slid open (we enjoyed after the rain ceased), it was equipped w old airline seats that recline (which made for a very comfortable ride), and featured a good sound system (Mr Sing apparently likes to rock out as he played loud local music).
The arrival at the falls stop was a bit understated as Mr Sing just cruised up onto a sand bank in the middle of nowhere and “docked”. He then led us past the bank up along a rutted dirt “road” that popped out in a tiny local Lao village. Our captain had previously promised our price included bus transport to the falls. Upon arrival in the little village, Mr Sing began going door to door to find someone to drive us. The answer was a young local guy who had a pickup truck so Amy and I piled in the front seat, Dazed & Confused style. He spoke no English but happily drove us for 80k Kip and the 20 minute drive was gorgeous… passed rice paddies, locals going about their daily business (yes, some carrying 2 baskets w a shoulder pole & wearing the conical hats), kids walking to school, etc. Just a lovely super special snapshot into Lao life. Our driver dropped us and showed me his phone. The time said 9:22pm. Uh oh. “Two hours” I said. He laughed. “You wait here?” He nodded yes so Amy and I were off to the falls.
The waterfall was easily the prettiest I’d ever seen. Each tier, even more spectacular. Amy and I tried to guess how many tiers. I said 25+ if you’re counting each little drop. She thought 15+ major drops. One just drop dead spectacular one that left me speechless (I know, a real rarity) and this was after I already found the falls just captivating. To the right of the big fall, there was a basic wooden sign with an arrow pointing “To top”. We had already passed a proper set of stairs to the left of the fall. We opted for the right, luckily so as it was a pretty tough steep amble up to the top, and took the more gradual way down on the other side. Just a beautiful place.
Back to the bottom and nearing noon, we grabbed take away lunch from local street food vendors, found our “bus driver” hanging w the locals and made it back to the river bank to find Mr Sing sleeping on his boat but still rocking out.
It was a 2.5 hour boat ride to the Pak Ou caves (upstream) and was simply a drop dead gorgeous journey. Amy and I both agreed that Laos was one of the most spectacular places we’ve ever been. I will definitely be back to Luang Prabang and I will certainly explore the rest of the country.
Upon arrival, we hiked up into a large cave that serves as the graveyard for Buddha statues no longer deemed suitable for placement in a temple or those given as offerings by worshippers. So it’s a couple caves full of abandoned Buddha statues. Big and small. I thought it looked like an army of Buddhas was assembling. Clearly these emblems are sacred enough to warrant special placement in a gorgeous cave on an gorgeous island in the middle of the Mekong river, but it was a little creepy, I’m not going to lie.
1 hour glorious boat cruise back to LP. I say glorious bc the sun finally made its appearance, which made for a whole set of new pictures. 


   
  

 https://youtu.be/zfim13MCdFk 



 

13 thoughts on “The Mekong

  1. What an adventure just getting there! Do not many tourists visit because it’s so hard to get there or is there regular transportation that you chose not to take? I love the river ride & the airplane seats. What a hoot. I agree with you on the creepy Buddha cave. We’re there other empty caves?

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    1. We arrived at the falls by 9:30am and largely had it to ourselves. By the time we were leaving, tour groups started pouring in but they definitely didn’t take our multiple modes of transportation but opted instead for large buses taking a boring round about route.
      There was one other large cave on island that we hiked up to… More creepy abandoned Buddha statues but cave was deeper and no lights so had to use phone flashlight so we wouldn’t kill ourselves traipsing around.

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  2. River looks pretty empty as far as other boats. This was a motorized boat, I assume? Sorry for the dumb questions. 😜

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  3. How cool! Looks beautiful. Amy, I promise not to tell Dad about your transportation with randoms in the village. Can you even imagine what he would say?? That man would lose sleep at night. 🙂

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    1. No sliding Jim. That wasn’t allowed. The big drop was prob 300 feet but not even allowed on smaller lower tiers. They did allow swimming in one of the lower pools. I was kinda glad it was a bit too cold bc my travel doc told me no swimming in fresh water bc of these snail larva that burrow into your skin. I pushed him on it (due to lovely waterfalls such as this), he relented and said I could do it if I doused myself in deet after to kill the larvae (before they burrow into my skin) & then slough them off w a towel. It was cold, so didn’t have to worry about skin eating snails which was nice.

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