So if there was ever any doubt whether Cuba was on its way, quickly, to becoming just like any other Caribbean island w it’s mega resorts wholly focused on catering to tourists., I witnessed it today. I was very excited to visit Playa Pilar (yes, named by Fidel in honor of Ernie’s boat as it was his favorite back during the time when Cayo Guillermo was still technically an island). It was & is still described in guidebooks (published wi the last 1.5-2 yrs) & online as an isolated beach accessible only by taking a bus & hiking over the sand dunes. No hotels. Served only by the Ranchon Playa Pilar, a small thatch-roofed restaurant that offers wonderful fresh caught lobster. And the softest whitest sand in all of Cuba. The last one is spot on. Definitely the best sand. I saw the remnants of the old charming little Ranchon Pilar, now used to store excess tables & beach chairs for when they now host “international dinners on the beach” at night. Seems the ol’ Ranchon has enjoyed good business, understandably so bc that lobster is ridiculously delicious, as it’s expanded a bit – doubled its size – & also built a lighted wooden plank walkway from the road over the dunes, conveniently right past its restaurant & down to the beach. As you can imagine, the bridge incredibly increases the accessibility of the beach so a flood of tourists come to visit every day. Soon there will be more. You see, the beach is flanked by 2 bluffs on which one, a brand spankin new Iberostar’s grand opening is imminent, & on the other, construction is clearly underway on another resort as the skyline is dotted w cranes. My guess is the little Ranchon Pilar will have trouble holding onto this beach & the entire thing will be fully developed in 3 years.