Alta Guajira’s Punta Gallinas… its eerie end-of-the-world landscapes make the journey a can’t miss

I’ve always said the places really worth visiting are difficult to get to. Difficult travels keep the casual tourist from visiting. Those are the places I like to find. Punta Gallinas takes that to the nth degree both in terms of travel & payoff. It is LITERALLY one of the most beautiful & wild places I’ve ever been to in my entire life (no hyperbole, really). The desert environment is harsh but so odd bc it’s unlike any desert I’ve ever seen with its aqua lagoons & plateaus, rocky cliffs & reddish-hued sand dunes rolling right into the sea. Temperatures are extreme but that’s the alta Guajira and Punta Gallinas is the Northernmost tip of Colombia & South America. 
Cabo de la Vela is the most visited place in alta Guajira. In fact, I met many people in Cabo de la Vela who fell in love with it (& kite surfing) & have therefore stayed for 1wk to 1mo but haven’t bothered to head N on the trek to Punta Gallinas. Even kiting instructors who’ve been there for months haven’t ventured N… “no time & I hear the road is terrible”. Those fools clearly don’t know what they’re missing. Well the “road” is terrible. I’m not sure you can even call it a road. The 4hr drive is in a massive 4WD w a seriously insane driver ripping through the desert, sometimes following prior tracks & sometimes creating new. The drive, which starts at 5am, leads to a 30min boat ride on a wooden skiff before you arrive at 1 of 2 hostels in Punta Gallinas. Then there’s not much to do right around the hostel but for a beach 2km walk away w a stunning view of Bahia Hondita providing for lovely sunsets. To see what Punta Gallinas has to offer, that involves piling in an even more massive 4WD on a day tour. So again, it’s more work while at Cabo de la Vela, the shack you’re staying in overlooks the water. But wow is it worth it as my jaw dropped further & further in wonder & awe with each stop. 
There’s no one around in Punta Gallinas. Only 8 Wayuu families live there & operate the hostels & run the tours. Not too many tourists venture this far N & those that do, are awfully cool. You bond rather quickly, even at 5am, when you’re crammed in a 4WD together, getting bounced & thrown nearly on top of one another w each turn & rut. We banded together over the next 2 days exploring during the day, enjoying sunsets at dusk, & playing rousing hands of cards at night. Surprisingly, the lodging conditions in Punta Gallinas were an improvement over Cabo de la Vela. I was expecting worse due to its difficult accessibility but it actually had running water & electricity (solar power & generator). It really makes me question what’s going on in Cabo de la Vela. While it has 50 Wayuu families & 1500 people, the ratio of tourists is probably consistent so I can’t believe the worse conditions are due to a cost issue. Sleeping conditions were the same but I sleep so well outdoors in chinchorros, I don’t mind it. And I hit a record for cheapest lodging per night as a chinchorro cost the equivalent of only USD$7 (Cabo de la Vela was a whopping USD$8). 
Definitely one of my fave trips ever. 

One set of headlights following us on the early morning drive to Punta Gallinas.



It was a bit bumpy on the drive

https://youtu.be/mzLF5gdDxSQ

I just couldn’t get over the color mix – orange / red sand against the aqua sea & bright blue sky

Arriving by boat through the mangroves

https://youtu.be/xbcnJxbZikc

Wayuu cairns built along the coast



The craziest coolest lagoon in a desert I’ve ever seen.


https://youtu.be/M2Hlbjze54o
This was the showstopper… we walked up & over the biggest, steepest sand dune that rolled right into the sea below. Running down the steep incline & face planting into the water was really a terrible time.





https://youtu.be/glDXDiNZuXg
It felt as if you were walking over the edge of a cliff as you couldn’t see the very bottom til you’d committed

https://youtu.be/EnZmPb7xITM


https://youtu.be/0vR7sm7Uugc




View of Bahia Hondita from the hostel

It is the desert after all

Alta Guajira’s Cabo de la Vela… visit only if you really love kiting (or as an overnight before Punta Gallinas)

Palomino was in the low region of La Guajira. The high region or alta Guajira is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Riohacha is the launching point (i.e. not a destination in & of itself) for the alta & its highlights include Cabo de la Vela, population 1500, & Punta Gallinas, far smaller. The region is home to the Wayuu tribe & bc they live in the desert, they can’t grow anything so while they sell their beautifully handmade chinchorros (large hammocks) & bags, they have also welcomed tourism. They invite you into their homes to stay. You sleep in chinchorros outside under a wooden roof for protection from the unusual storm & typical winds but in full view of the starry sky featuring more stars than I’ve ever seen in my life x 10. It’s hot during the day & cold at night thanks to the desert climate. It’s a brutal environment that scares away most tourists. So of course I wanted to visit. 
In the recent past, few tourists ventured as far as Riohacha. Now most tourists who head further NE to Cabo de la Vela & further to Punta Gallinas do so courtesy of 3-day organized tours from Santa Marta in fancy SUVs for a lot of money, much of which does not make it into the hands of the Wayuu. I decided to do it on my own on the cheap & devoted 6 nights, although I wasn’t sure I’d need them all (or could stand them all). For the first time ever, & leveraging my Chicago-honed taxi hailing skills, I flagged down a bus heading E on the main road near the Palomino center, told the driver I was headed to Riohacha & he waved me aboard. 1.5hrs later I made it to Riohacha & pulled out the trusty LP to guide me the rest of the way. Hailed a taxi to run a few errands including cash as Riohacha is the last place I’d see an ATM for a week & everything operates solely on cash up N. Taxi then dropped me at a corner w colectivos looking to fill rides to Uribia. It took about 2 mins to find one w a spot for me, negotiated price & we were off, arriving 1.5hrs later. My colectivo driver seemed most concerned with helping me find the next transport heading to Cabo de la Vela & thankfully his other local riders didn’t seem to mind. 
Now this was the fun part. I was loaded onto a 4WD (bc that’s the only kinda vehicle that can make it any further) & “enjoyed” a bone crushing, teeth chattering 2.5+hr journey to Cabo de la Vela. The truck was like those you see in movies. A big cab w a metal frame in the bed containing wooden bench seats along the side & thankfully metal safety guards to keep you from bouncing out. Then on top? It’s piled high w anything & everything the driver is bringing back to Cabo de la Vela on behalf of various business owners along his route. This includes massive styrofoam containers filled w ice & refrigerated items (bc there’s no refridgerators & barely electricity in Cabo de la Vela), gasoline (a LOT of gasoline including a massive drum that traveled w us in the rear – I chose not to consider what would happen in the event of an accident – bc there’s no gas stations beyond Uribia), various food items & a massive amount of beer (noted). Perched atop everything was my backpack secured w rope. The driver’s 3 sons served as the packers who piled things perfectly in a mound atop the frame & rode atop it until each delivery stop where, in a jenga-like game, they had to carefully remove the intended package without everything else toppling over. It was really quite fascinating. All the while, I’m crammed in the back as the only tourist accompanied by 11 Wayuu women & 5 children on laps w more packages, fruits & veggies, eggs & the massive gasoline drum in between us. It was a trip. We must’ve looked amazingly ridiculous bc all of those rich DBs who paid USD$1k for a 3-day trip were racing up in their fancy SUVs as we neared Cabo de la Vela just to get photos of the circus on wheels & the gringo along for the ride. 
The driver kindly dropped me right at my hostel located a 10min walk outside of town right on the water bc of course, it was on his delivery route. The hostel was recommended by the coffee finca owner & is owned by a couple who’ve been in the area for years & operate a kite surfing school. So my plan in Cabo de la Vela was to finally learn how to kite. I was sure it probably wouldn’t go well but I was down for a challenge & always some laughs. Unfortunately, the owners left last minute due to a family emergency & left the place to some overwhelmed volunteer backpackers & the remaining kiting instructor was far too busy &/or did not excel at time management. He was unable to accommodate all of the kiters on his own so after repeated promises that kept falling through, I decided to call short my time in Cabo de la Vela & head N to Punta Gallinas via a supposed even more harrowing trip. You see, while Cabo de la Vela is a lovely place & the hostel was located right on the water, there is really nothing going on in that town unless you are very into kite surfing. The desert heat leaves you constantly seeking shade & while waiting & hoping for my lessons to begin, I wandered the town, watched other kiters (but that just made me envious), made friends w some local Wayuu kids & of course bought some Wayuu bags.
After the rustic nature of the accommodations in Cabo de la Vela – showers by bucket, toilets as you can imagine (SE Asia prepared me well), no / minimum electricity, few resto options so cooking on your own in a rustic kitchen, occasional mice & cockroaches – given the fact Punta Gallinas is far more remote, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but I was down for it & excited. 

The ride from Uribia to Cabo de la Vela w my backpack at the top of the heap.

Being chased down by the lazy well-off gringos in their SUVs. They’re missing out on half the fun. You appreciate it more if you work for it.

Video of the drive:

https://youtu.be/fxskFbcpiGk

Tracks to nowhere
Cabo de la Vela’s main strip

The hostel
Sleeping conditions
View of town from my hostel. If you’re going to do remote, you might as well go all in. My headlamp was critical on this trip.
View from other side of town, towards my hostel
The 2 Wayuu bags, or mochilas, I bought in Cabo de la Vela as well as a bracelet made by a fun 13yo boy. I made him tell me about school & what he was learning & we talked for 30mins before I’d buy a bracelet. Then we made up our own secret handshake he was always so excited to show off the countless times we’d run into each other. The bags are so interesting. Each pattern has a special meaning. Upon a girl’s first menstrual cycle, she’s locked away w her mom & grandma for 6mos to 1yr as they teach her how to be a Wayuu woman which includes learning how to crochet these bag & the meaning behind the patterns. Don’t ask me what my patterns mean. All I know is the white one is about 2x cost of the multi-colored one due to the quality of the materials. I think they’re gorgeous. I’d have bought 20 if I could to bring them home for everyone. But they weren’t super cheap. Many Colombians carry them – all Wayuu do – both men & women.