Boipeba, Bahia, Brazil – The Morro de Sao Paulo of 20 years ago

Getting to Boipeba in Bahia, Brazil is not so easy. It’s made easier if you’re accessing it from Morro de Sao Paulo as I was. It’s an island off the coast of the state of Bahia in Brazil & is just south of Morro’s island of Tinhare. When I was done playing in Morro, I simply hopped aboard a small boat bound with Morro day trippers for Boipeba & abandoned the trip halfway through to stay put there. Many of the folks I met in Salvador Bahia & Morro suggested I skip Boipeba. It felt akin to the relationship between Arraial do Cabo & Buzios. Boipeba gets no mention in either my Lonely Planet or Rough Guide but I came across it searching online for best undiscovered spots in Brazil as well as best beaches… bc I must be honest, I needed Brazil to satisfy my fix at the end of my trip.

Boipeba certainly fit the bill. It was quiet & tiny with very few people around when our little boat cruised up on shore. One guy did run over to meet our boat donning an “Uber Boipeba” homemade tee-shirt as he was the island’s clever wheelbarrow taxi service. I paid him $3 to carry my backpack & lead me on a winding 15-min walk to my pousada in the jungle. After I settled in, I went exploring & ended up on a beach running into the same uber driver, asked him where the center was & he kindly walked me there & gave me a brief 15-min tour.

The locals are lovely & welcoming, always greeting you with a smile & a “bom dia”. The atmosphere is super chill. No shoes needed. The days are spent lazily wandering & hiking (in flip flops) through the jungle & along the shore from one ridiculously perfect deserted crescent-shaped palm-fringed wide white sand beach to another as well as snorkeling in cool offshore shallow pools formed by rocks & coral.

Once again, the tiny, off-the-beaten-path, lesser known locale vs. a still small, off-the-beaten-path locale turns out to be my fave destination. 

Port of arrival


[caption width="5192" id="attachment_2777" align="alignnone"] The perfect deserted crescent-shaped palm-fringed white sand beach


Yes this is a boat bar equipped with floating tables anchored to the ground right next to a great snorkeling spot

Back to Vietnam… the country that stole my heart

I’ve had a wonderful time exploring all of these countries but I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t been thinking, somewhat obsessively at times, for the last 2 months about getting back to Vietnam. I think it’s a combo of the people, the food & the variety of places the country has to offer. So I’m going to hit a couple spots I couldn’t squeeze in during the first 3+ weeks as well as one of my faves from round one.
As an aside… you know you’re traveling a lot when you run into 3 different couples & one solo traveler (the New Zealander from Mandalay) you’ve previously met in the Saigon airport. Three of the encounters happened in quick succession & all were venturing into Vietnam for the first time & wanted some travel advice. So I did introductions & held a sort of Vietnam travel info session at an airport coffee shop to help them plan their trips. They exchanged info in hopes of connecting later. I was going in a different direction but it was a pretty proud moment. Not gonna lie.
My first stop in Vietnam was the island of Phu Quoc, off the southern coast for some R&R on the beach for 4 days after my 1.5 week sprint through Myanmar. It was gorgeous. I had previously heard it was pretty well developed & a not-so-secret stop on the tourism circuit. Perhaps I would’ve thought that after enjoying those nearly deserted beaches on my previous jaunt north along Vietnam’s SE coast but certainly not after after having visited Bali recently. A very good indicator I was going to like it was the fact that I was the only non-local on the connecting flight from Saigon. So it’s still very much a domestic Vietnamese holiday destination. Generally, I’ve found that I really like those places. This was more of the same.
Second stop was Dalat, a city in the central highlands that provides a reprieve from the heat. While the rest of the country is sweltering, it tops out at 75 here & gets down to 69 at night. So I’m freezing of course since now I’m accustomed to 90+ degree weather. But I wanted to visit as I’ve heard lovely things. It’s nestled in the mountains with lakes & is a good spot for some serious trekking & adventure mountain biking. Since I ditched my tennis shoes in Bali in favor of some hippy pants, I didn’t come equipped with serious trekking gear & I wasn’t really feeling the land-based adventure sports, I instead focused on exploring the adorable city of Dalat. I couldn’t shake my laziness from Phu Quoc as I spent 2 full days wandering aimlessly & hopping from one quaint cafe w a great view to another, stopping to read a book & enjoy a smoothie/tea/coffee/beer. The city screams of French colonialism & there are delicious little French pastry shops everywhere that drew me in by selling macarons, my fave. Lazily touring the city, in addition to delicious meals out, was the gist of my time in Dalat & I thoroughly enjoyed it. Perhaps I’ll be back one day & motivated to do the adventure stuff. It’s funny, other places (like KL especially) I’ve felt the need to rush through the city, knocking out all the major sites as I think subconsciously I figured I likely wouldn’t return. That is so not the case with anywhere in Vietnam. I don’t feel any pressure to knock things off someone’s supposed “top 10 things to see” list maybe bc I know deep down that I will definitely be back.
Saigon was my first repeat stop on this trip, deservedly so. It’s such a cool city. It was a welcoming feeling in a taxi headed to my hotel as I recognized landmarks & parks & intersections. Despite staying in the same area as last time, I discovered new charming areas of the city I had previously missed. I spent zero time at tourists sites. All I did was eat. And walked, wandering the city, discovering new neighborhoods, parks, cafes & pastry shops to work off the prior meal so I could look forward to the next. I had to enjoy as much of this food as possible. I had a lengthy list of restaurants to tick through as this Saigon-based couple I met 2+ months ago in Vietnam at Doc Let beach provided recommendations for the best local dining. Going off that list, I had incredible pho breakfasts (oh how I had missed those), great lunches at street food restos & perhaps the best meal of the trip so far at a lovely little hole-in-the-wall resto in a house on an alley that I never would’ve otherwise found. Absolutely delicious.

Oh how I have missed my morning pho breakfasts
The Phu Quoc view I awake to from my beach villa
My sunset

Holy thunderstorm rolled in one afternoon. It was dope.
After the storm
Dalat traffic circle