Holguin – amusemusings

(Aside… I only just realized I had 3 blog posts saved as draft leftover from my Cuba trip so I’m going to post those first before I get to South America).
Due to the delay from Fidel’s caravan, I didn’t arrive in Playa Pesquero until 2am & was starving since I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. Thankfully there was a spot still open. There were 3 Canadian guys sidled up to the bar who claimed to have never seen an American in Cuba before & in fact, they were experts bc they come to Cuba every year. Well to be clear, they came first to Varadero & then every year since, they come to Pesquero. Never anywhere but all inclusive resorts. But they claimed to be the experts on Cuban culture. So much so they claimed, within earshot of a very nice bartender who spoke enough English to be dangerous & who already appeared somewhat annoyed w them, that Cubans would much rather have gifts like tee shirts than money. Me: What?

Canadian: Yeah bc if I give them a CAD$5 bill, they have to declare it & then the govt takes a cut.

M: Right, but why don’t you just give them $CUC.

C: Silence. Blank stares.

C: Oh that’s the currency, right? Yeah, I’d rather not take the time to exchange.

M: Oh so this is really all about convenience for you huh? It’s much easier to give them some old Maple Leafs tees than it is to exchange money?

Background: This is the same guy who claims to love Cuban culture so much yet brings along from home his own ketchup & maple syrup. And he was lamenting the fact that Americans will likely be coming soon in droves.

C: I mean, you’re really cool but there are some not so cool Americans out there.

M: Right, I’ve met some not so cool Canadians & Europeans on this trip not at all interested in really experiencing the Cuban culture & I’m not so sure they’re any different from the Americans you’re referring to.

He agreed. But yet he had no idea I was digging on him. His friend figured it out & I think was somewhat embarrassed so ushered him out. The bartender sat down on the stool next to mine & commented on what assholes they are & how he does not enjoy their annual visits. I settled up by tipping him CUC$5 for his troubles which pleased him very much & then I crashed.
Daylight revealed this is another pretty beach. Cuba has a lot of them. It’s just that none of them are a secret anymore. This one isn’t so windy, has a bit better snorkeling, the sand is slightly more brown than white but it’s pretty darn soft so that’s just being picky. It’s lovely. I just can’t stand the other people visiting.

I arrived in Ciego de Avila at 10am to take my longest at 5.5hrs but last bus ride of the trip at 11am after a 2hr taxi ride from Guillermo to find the streets lined w people. Police had the roads closed & but granted us permission to continue to the bus station. This had to mean only one thing… looks like I ran smack dab into the Fidel caravan. I had been trying to figure out the exact route & timing. The news never seemed to announce it. I asked a bunch of locals & those that claimed to know all had different answers. Even a group of hotel workers last night who have today off & live in Ciego were taking a 5am bus East to see the caravan elsewhere. Why would they leave their hometown if it was happening there? I had asked them about the route & told them my bus time & they thought I’d miss it. And now it’s right outside my bus station. I definitely have impeccable timing.
Of course this all means there’s zero chance my bus leaves on time, at least I was hoping so bc that would mean I’d see history unfold in front of me. After checking in, I wandered the street near the station until 11, all while carrying my backpack, & then headed back for an update. The bus going west from Santiago to Havana had arrived & was staying put until after the caravan has passed as the government has shut down all the roads – including the carretera the bus would take. At least their bus agreed to hold their luggage. As I’m going East, my bus is stuck behind the caravan so I’m still stuck w my bag – but so happy it’s a light backpack. It was a real hot day – hottest to-date during my trip – so I sat in the station til 12:30 watching the tv coverage of the procession. I could see & hear outside & the crowds had grown to enormous proportions so I ventured out, walked a bit, found a decent spot behind the initial 3-4 deep crowds lining the street, dropped my pack & promptly took a seat on it to sweat it out. People waiting seemed envious of my seat but they were the smart ones w umbrellas bc it was a scorcher. The spot I picked happened to be right behind a bunch of kids aged 5-10 in their school uniforms marching around in a large circle singing various Fidel chants & carrying signs. Their fave chant was of course “Yo soy Fidel”. Adults of all ages were more quiet & somber but the kids brought a lot of energy. Even some of the adults were taking videos of the kids who seemed to bring big smiles to many of their faces – perhaps a reminder of the excitement they had in their youth.
Watching the crowd was pretty unreal. No one seemed to have any idea of when this was happening & they were lined up for hours waiting. At the slightest sound of a vehicle, people who weren’t already standing along the street rushed from their spots in the shade & sprinted to the street. It didn’t matter what direction the car was coming from. I mean I knew I had no idea from where the procession was coming but I had assumed the locals would. That’s how little info has been put out in advance of this thing.
Fidel’s procession passed by at 2pm. I found a slight incline from which I took a pretty cool video as you can clearly see the mini-casket bearing his name carrying his ashes & covered by a mini-Cuban flag, enclosed in glass, surrounded by white flowers, held by an military trailer & towed by a green military 4×4 holding 5 officers. There was massive cheering & chants & flag waving as he passed & once he passed & the cheering subsided, only then could I hear the sobs. People were very upset & almost didn’t know what to do with themselves after they waited so long & then it was over in 3 minutes. Some stood & cried. Most just wandered off silently. It’s so cool I got to see this. I had given up getting close to any festivities & then whaddya know, chance intervened on my behalf.
Many would consider this a real shitty travel day (and believe me, there were those tourists who sat right where they were, not leaving the bus station & missed history happening right outside) w the bus leaving 4.5hrs late & further 1.5hr & 1hr delays on the way due to road shutdowns as we were following the caravan East. I arrived in Holguin 8hrs+ behind schedule & still had to catch a 1hr taxi to Playa Pesquero… but I saw freakin Fidel so it was all worth it.

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