I had been forewarned about this city. I was told I’d love it. After a (splurged $70) flight, taxi, 2hr bus & another taxi l, I arrived in Valparaiso, Chile, just as the sun was setting, from Puerto Varas. I’d seen photos. I was so excited. No 1 – it was a proper city but not too big. No 2 – while I loved my Patagonia time, now that it was over, I was ready for the next thing. And while I zigzagged north throughout Chile & Argentina, it wasn’t an accident I ended up here next. I carried a strong suspicion I’d love this place. But every time I told folks I was heading to Valparaiso, the first question was “no Vina Del Mar?” From what I’m told, “Vina”’ is a bourgey beach town w boulevards & palm trees just 15mins north of Valparaiso. Maybe a day trip, I’d tell them. But in 5 days, I could never draw myself away from Valparaiso to visit (I did see it as I drove out of town & I’m satisfied w my decision). The first night, over dinner & drinks, i deleted over 400 photos & it was grey skies that day. It’s so picturesque. I compare it to a weird mix of Havana & Bogota. Havana, for its lovely colors, run down charm, history & ocean views. Bogota, for its ridiculously amazing street art & mountains. But Valaparaiso is like the alternative hippy poor mans cousin to both. It’s a port city so the ocean views aren’t ideal & beach access sucks unless you get a little bit out of town. You don’t feel quite the history here but for the still 8-operating funicular elevators although I took none & walked up the steep hills & escaleras, knee be damned, bc the lines were insane (so much for the earthquake scare). No mountains but rather hills but the hills make for the beautiful views & good work for your legs. The street art doesn’t seem to be as impressive, celebrated, protected or as professional as Bogota’s IMHO based solely upon 5 days of endless wandering but Bogota is a massive city & this is on a much smaller scale. But my goodness, there is something in the water, hills, street art, colors, run down charm, etc that is just intoxicating. This is a place I could live.