So would I come to Cuba again? Absolutely. I fell in love w Havana & pray that w the future US investment bound to eventually come, it retains its unique culture & feel. I will be back to Havana probably in the not so distant future. The rest of Cuba? I’m not so sure. I loved the other cities I visited & I’m thrilled I did so, but I’m not sure I would need to return. I don’t think I need to hit the beaches again. As pretty as the beaches are, & they easily rival / best any other Caribbean beaches I’ve seen, I think I’d skip them as they are devoid of any Cuban culture & teeming w annoying entitled tourists. I know the same people visit Havana, although most I spoke with had never, but in Havana they are far outnumbered by locals so they don’t stand out quite as much.
It all depends on how much time I have. One week? Stick to Havana. Do some day trips in a hired taxi out to Playa del Este 20-30 mins outside of Havana for beach time & still enjoy the Havana nights. Two weeks? Squeeze in something else. A flight to Santiago de Cuba, which I was unable to squeeze in thx to Fidel, & again if necessary, find local beaches surrounding the city. But I think I’d stick to the bigger cities teeming w people, music & culture bc for me, that’s what Cuba is all about. Or consider spending a week at one of the top 2 dive locales (Jardines Del Reina & Isla de la Juventud).
One thing I know for sure… I would think twice about flying in American-owned airlines. Other airlines have been flying in & out for years & they seemed to have no problems. I flew AeroMexico to Havana w no issues. Unfortunately I decided to fly American Airlines back from Holguin. Their computer system kept shutting down so it took them forever to checkin the passengers which resulted in a 1hr delay. 1hr of 3hr layover in Miami. Not bad. Then on the runway, we suddenly turned back toward the terminal. Not good. After sitting for 30 mins, we finally got an unbelievable update from the Captain, clearly taking cues from the new President-Elect: “I’m sure you all are as frustrated as we are. The delay is due to the total incompetence of the people on the ground here who can’t seem to understand that we need an accurate count of people & weight before we can leave & they can’t seem to get it to us. I have no idea how long it will take.” Ummm. What??? A lot of white Americans around me laughed out loud. When they were done, I said, in a rather loud judgemental tone to anyone within earshot, that I thought the statement was extremely rude, there have been planes flying in/out of Cuba for years & a Canadian airline that was due to leave 1.5hrs after us got off just fine, yet we’re supposed to believe it’s an issue w the Cubans & not an issue w American who is newly operating flights here. Yeah right. That shamed the laughers into silence as the plane was full of Cuban-Americans & I was offended on their behalf. It was total BS from an incompetent airline. And by the time we left, I had given up all hope of making my connection to Chicago. Oh well. I put on The Magnetic Fields 69 Love Songs Vol 3 & chilled out on the way back to the states.
Tag: Cuba
The confusing US policy on Cuba
Traveling in Cuba & especially w Fidel’s passing, I’ve spent quite a bit of time considering the US’ embargo. I must say I’m not quite sure I understand the varying US stance when it comes to dictator-ruled communist / socialist countries around the world. For example, we still give a hundred million dollars each year in aid to Cambodia whose Hun Sen, still in power today & still ruling ruthlessly, is corrupt beyond belief, runs bogus elections & operates a hit squad to take out political opponents, dissenters & members of the press who dare challenge him. We do that bc the people need it & we overlook the significant human rights issues but for a semi-terse talking to every year. We are close allies with Saudi Arabia whose human rights record is atrocious & has never held elections. There are several other examples. I fail to understand how Fidel in Cuba is any different. I in fact think he’s more tame.
The difference is US got its feelings hurt. You see, they scammed Cuba in 1900 during the Spanish-Cuban-American War when Americans came in to save the day & free Cuba from its Spanish conquerors. Just from the goodness of our heart. I’m sure nothing at all to do w the fact that we wanted a naval base in Cuba to protect our interests in the Panama Canal, a naval base that was written into the Paris Peace Agreements to discuss the now “liberated Cuba”, a meeting to which the US didn’t invite a single Cuban representative. Imagine the US anger then when the horribly oppressive dictator they backed, Bautista, was overthrown by Fidel & Fidel had the gall to oppose their imperialistic policies, nationalized US interests in Cuba (which was a lot as US owned 75% of sugar industry & much of the utilities) & partnered w the Russians. I mean it was the Cold War & having a communist propped government 90 miles off the coast of Florida was clearly unsettling. But 1991 happened & USSR fell & Cuba’s sugar daddy went away & without that money, it drove Cuba into a massive economic depression. Cubans really struggled but yet Fidel still wouldn’t bow down to the US. How infuriating.
Despite the suffering, there’s still the embargo. It seems like Fidel & his cronies were a thorn in the US’ side. They vehemently opposed imperialistic US policy & looked to spread their beliefs as they sent Cuban troops to help overthrow dictators in Latin & South America as well as Africa. The US knew he inspired people & was afraid of those thoughts spreading like wildfire & undermining their control & influence. And I bet it drove them nuts that he foiled over 600 known assassination attempts. But what I’m really curious about is who in the US held those interests that were nationalized in 1962? My guess is they are prominent wealthy American businesses who are very much still active, yielding massive power & who are still, & will forever be, royally pissed off at Fidel. At the end of the day, our country’s decisions are ruled by money so why would this be any different?
So maybe just maybe the US’ message on Cuba is different from reality – much like it is for Palestine – bc that’s what they want everyone to believe. “Fidel is a ruthless dictator guilty of many atrocities”. If that’s wholly true, then how do they explain the millions of Cubans out celebrating the life of, & paying respect to, Fidel at the various ceremonies this week & lining the caravan route? It’s difficult to imagine they’re all brainwashed or forced to attend for fear of arrest. I bet the US is having a hard time with it, if they’ve even bothered to step away from their own politics to report upon world events. It’s hard to ignore.
The last stop… Playa Pesquero
(Aside… I only just realized I had 3 blog posts saved as draft leftover from my Cuba trip so I’m going to post those first before I get to South America).
Due to the delay from Fidel’s caravan, I didn’t arrive in Playa Pesquero until 2am & was starving since I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. Thankfully there was a spot still open. There were 3 Canadian guys sidled up to the bar who claimed to have never seen an American in Cuba before & in fact, they were experts bc they come to Cuba every year. Well to be clear, they came first to Varadero & then every year since, they come to Pesquero. Never anywhere but all inclusive resorts. But they claimed to be the experts on Cuban culture. So much so they claimed, within earshot of a very nice bartender who spoke enough English to be dangerous & who already appeared somewhat annoyed w them, that Cubans would much rather have gifts like tee shirts than money. Me: What?
Canadian: Yeah bc if I give them a CAD$5 bill, they have to declare it & then the govt takes a cut.
M: Right, but why don’t you just give them $CUC.
C: Silence. Blank stares.
C: Oh that’s the currency, right? Yeah, I’d rather not take the time to exchange.
M: Oh so this is really all about convenience for you huh? It’s much easier to give them some old Maple Leafs tees than it is to exchange money?
Background: This is the same guy who claims to love Cuban culture so much yet brings along from home his own ketchup & maple syrup. And he was lamenting the fact that Americans will likely be coming soon in droves.
C: I mean, you’re really cool but there are some not so cool Americans out there.
M: Right, I’ve met some not so cool Canadians & Europeans on this trip not at all interested in really experiencing the Cuban culture & I’m not so sure they’re any different from the Americans you’re referring to.
He agreed. But yet he had no idea I was digging on him. His friend figured it out & I think was somewhat embarrassed so ushered him out. The bartender sat down on the stool next to mine & commented on what assholes they are & how he does not enjoy their annual visits. I settled up by tipping him CUC$5 for his troubles which pleased him very much & then I crashed.
Daylight revealed this is another pretty beach. Cuba has a lot of them. It’s just that none of them are a secret anymore. This one isn’t so windy, has a bit better snorkeling, the sand is slightly more brown than white but it’s pretty darn soft so that’s just being picky. It’s lovely. I just can’t stand the other people visiting.
Playa Ancon… best beach in the South?
12km south of Trinidad is Playa Ancon, supposedly the most beautiful beach on the southern side of the island. I prefer my beaches w water that moves. A real surf if possible. Makes it much more entertaining IMHO. Allows me to ride the waves & also giggle when they knock others over. The devil in me. Ancon has no waves. Zero. Flat as can be. Much like other beaches I’ve seen in the protected Caribbean waters. But it really was beautiful & very tranquil. I rented a bike for the day to leisurely bike the 12km to & from Trinidad. A very picturesque ride. Time seemed to fly by & it was quite enjoyable. On the way there, that is. I realized why on the return ride as Trinidad is certainly at a higher elevation than sea level. So on the way there, I was riding down a very gradual hill the entire trip. Not so much on the way back. The few mojitos I enjoyed on the trip made for a not-so-enjoyable slow ride back so when a taxi, complete w a bike rack on the back (I’m clearly not the first moronic tourist to make the same mistake & later realization), honked & offered me a ride w maybe half of the trip remaining, I gladly took him up on his offer.
Rewind… to Trinidad
It’s not often to be lucky enough to find yourself smack dab in the center of profound world changing events so I haven’t had time to post some already written blog entries on Trinidad, the hippest place to visit outside of Havana & only a short 1.5hr bus ride from Cienfuegos. It’s a lovely city set in a valley surrounded by Cuba’s version of mountains. It has small winding cobblestone streets w very picturesque vistas of lovely colored casas against the lush green mountains, that is, if you can stop watching your feet for fear of tripping & falling flat on your face due to the vastly uneven cobblestones. I wandered for hours in local hoods past parks w kids playing. Came across kids flying kites – right above the same power lines which seem to have made a habit of collecting a lot of former kites. I guess no one really does ever learn. Or they think they can beat it.
There’s a lovely town square Plaza Mayor & nearby a big wide set of stone steps perfect for people watching & after 10pm nightly, the steps are transformed into the music center of the city w multiple salsa singing & dancing acts performing while competing storefront bars selling “the best mojitos in the world” allow you to enjoy a cocktail while taking in the scene. My one gripe w the music scene in Trinidad is it was very clearly catering only to tourists, no locals. In both Havana & Cienfuegos, I found higher quality music in venues w a good mix of tourists & locals so you felt like you were experiencing real Cuba. But I think I’m in the minority here as everyone seemed to absolutely love it.
The primary thing about Trinidad that left a lot to be desired was the food. I read somewhere that in 2011, before the change in laws regarding private restaurants, there were 3 private restos. Now there are over 90. So it seems as if everyone is trying to throw their hat in the game & reap the awards that come w increased tourism. It certainly doesn’t mean they all have good food. Far from it. The best meal I had in Trinidad was cooked by my friendly casa owners as I found even the LP recommended restaurants to be shit. It really is a beautiful city but between the food & what seems to be a nonstop focus on making a buck, I wonder if the city has lost some of its local charm due to its newfound trendiness. Havana & Cienfuegos had loads of it. I’m hopeful it will sort itself out w time.
I was awakened at 7am to what sounded like a marching band & found this outside my casa. After they finished playing a few songs, they all started drinking rum. A lot of it. At 7:15. I have no idea. Nor did my casa owners. https://youtu.be/6u7y3tn9Nmk
The problem w selfies
I’ve had a few beers & I’ve found myself on my soapbox. I’m proud to stink at taking selfies. Traveling, I watch far too many people focus solely on capturing themselves in the best light / pose / scene / etc w total disregard for what’s going on around them. The selfie stick has taken it to a whole other level. I watched a couple in Trinidad the other day & I bet, no exaggeration, this chick took no less than 1,000 pictures of herself in a matter of 20 minutes in various states of undress, sunglasses / squinting, hair up / down, I could go on but frankly rehashing it now is as boring as watching the real thing go down. I at first felt for the guy as he patiently sat nearby while this travesty unfolded. Until she asked him to participate & he happily took another 1,000 photos of her. I don’t think they had any appreciation for where they were, what they were seeing, the local culture… nothing. She just wanted the cutest photo to post on social media. They’re the same goddam people who I stand behind at shows in small venues as they record every song. They’re not watching or enjoying the show. They’re documenting it to post on YouTube later (or snapchat or whatever kids do these days) & brag to their friends they were there. Live in the goddam moment people. And if you’re not going to? Then get the hell out of my way & sit at home & watch other videos bc by recording it, you’re missing out on the actual experience (& you’re blocking my view’ your distracting smartphone). There’s one common thread in these situations… I seem to be the only one bothered by this social phenomenon. That’s how normal it’s become.
I really think it’s a microcosm of what is wrong w society today. This isn’t just an American problem. It’s global. People are so goddamned self-involved they don’t give a shit about how other people are impacted by their actions, words, votes, etc. I used to say that traveling internationally for an extended period of time ought to be a pre-requisite for university. Now I feel I must qualify that by requiring volunteer experience to enforce a recognition of various levels of privilege, meaningful interactions w locals beyond simply a service capacity, legitimate attempts to communicate in the local language, appreciation of local customs & culture… maybe that will enable people to pull their head out of their asses, consider other people & actually experience what’s happening around them.
Hemingway appendix
The kindle version of A Farewell to Arms I was re-reading had appendices containing the 39 other potential endings as well as an exhaustive list of potential titles. My fave? “I have committed fornication but that was In Another Country and Besides the wench is dead”. I’m guessing he was having a bad day when that one came to mind. Hysterical. Side note – AFTA was 3rd on the list.
Fidel’s caravan
I arrived in Ciego de Avila at 10am to take my longest at 5.5hrs but last bus ride of the trip at 11am after a 2hr taxi ride from Guillermo to find the streets lined w people. Police had the roads closed & but granted us permission to continue to the bus station. This had to mean only one thing… looks like I ran smack dab into the Fidel caravan. I had been trying to figure out the exact route & timing. The news never seemed to announce it. I asked a bunch of locals & those that claimed to know all had different answers. Even a group of hotel workers last night who have today off & live in Ciego were taking a 5am bus East to see the caravan elsewhere. Why would they leave their hometown if it was happening there? I had asked them about the route & told them my bus time & they thought I’d miss it. And now it’s right outside my bus station. I definitely have impeccable timing.
Of course this all means there’s zero chance my bus leaves on time, at least I was hoping so bc that would mean I’d see history unfold in front of me. After checking in, I wandered the street near the station until 11, all while carrying my backpack, & then headed back for an update. The bus going west from Santiago to Havana had arrived & was staying put until after the caravan has passed as the government has shut down all the roads – including the carretera the bus would take. At least their bus agreed to hold their luggage. As I’m going East, my bus is stuck behind the caravan so I’m still stuck w my bag – but so happy it’s a light backpack. It was a real hot day – hottest to-date during my trip – so I sat in the station til 12:30 watching the tv coverage of the procession. I could see & hear outside & the crowds had grown to enormous proportions so I ventured out, walked a bit, found a decent spot behind the initial 3-4 deep crowds lining the street, dropped my pack & promptly took a seat on it to sweat it out. People waiting seemed envious of my seat but they were the smart ones w umbrellas bc it was a scorcher. The spot I picked happened to be right behind a bunch of kids aged 5-10 in their school uniforms marching around in a large circle singing various Fidel chants & carrying signs. Their fave chant was of course “Yo soy Fidel”. Adults of all ages were more quiet & somber but the kids brought a lot of energy. Even some of the adults were taking videos of the kids who seemed to bring big smiles to many of their faces – perhaps a reminder of the excitement they had in their youth.
Watching the crowd was pretty unreal. No one seemed to have any idea of when this was happening & they were lined up for hours waiting. At the slightest sound of a vehicle, people who weren’t already standing along the street rushed from their spots in the shade & sprinted to the street. It didn’t matter what direction the car was coming from. I mean I knew I had no idea from where the procession was coming but I had assumed the locals would. That’s how little info has been put out in advance of this thing.
Fidel’s procession passed by at 2pm. I found a slight incline from which I took a pretty cool video as you can clearly see the mini-casket bearing his name carrying his ashes & covered by a mini-Cuban flag, enclosed in glass, surrounded by white flowers, held by an military trailer & towed by a green military 4×4 holding 5 officers. There was massive cheering & chants & flag waving as he passed & once he passed & the cheering subsided, only then could I hear the sobs. People were very upset & almost didn’t know what to do with themselves after they waited so long & then it was over in 3 minutes. Some stood & cried. Most just wandered off silently. It’s so cool I got to see this. I had given up getting close to any festivities & then whaddya know, chance intervened on my behalf.
Many would consider this a real shitty travel day (and believe me, there were those tourists who sat right where they were, not leaving the bus station & missed history happening right outside) w the bus leaving 4.5hrs late & further 1.5hr & 1hr delays on the way due to road shutdowns as we were following the caravan East. I arrived in Holguin 8hrs+ behind schedule & still had to catch a 1hr taxi to Playa Pesquero… but I saw freakin Fidel so it was all worth it.
Videos
Kids chanting before https://youtu.be/fs6Xzekr4kE
Crowd just before he passed https://youtu.be/G6quYw5V90Y
Playa Pilar – the best Cuban beach per locals
So if there was ever any doubt whether Cuba was on its way, quickly, to becoming just like any other Caribbean island w it’s mega resorts wholly focused on catering to tourists., I witnessed it today. I was very excited to visit Playa Pilar (yes, named by Fidel in honor of Ernie’s boat as it was his favorite back during the time when Cayo Guillermo was still technically an island). It was & is still described in guidebooks (published wi the last 1.5-2 yrs) & online as an isolated beach accessible only by taking a bus & hiking over the sand dunes. No hotels. Served only by the Ranchon Playa Pilar, a small thatch-roofed restaurant that offers wonderful fresh caught lobster. And the softest whitest sand in all of Cuba. The last one is spot on. Definitely the best sand. I saw the remnants of the old charming little Ranchon Pilar, now used to store excess tables & beach chairs for when they now host “international dinners on the beach” at night. Seems the ol’ Ranchon has enjoyed good business, understandably so bc that lobster is ridiculously delicious, as it’s expanded a bit – doubled its size – & also built a lighted wooden plank walkway from the road over the dunes, conveniently right past its restaurant & down to the beach. As you can imagine, the bridge incredibly increases the accessibility of the beach so a flood of tourists come to visit every day. Soon there will be more. You see, the beach is flanked by 2 bluffs on which one, a brand spankin new Iberostar’s grand opening is imminent, & on the other, construction is clearly underway on another resort as the skyline is dotted w cranes. My guess is the little Ranchon Pilar will have trouble holding onto this beach & the entire thing will be fully developed in 3 years.
Anthony Bourdain is a phony
So my hotel in Cayo Guillermo has CNN. Nuts! It’s been so easy to avoid any kind of news from back home. Got back to my room & was just curious what channels the tv carried bc it was my first tv in Cuba. Funny enough, CNN was the only channel in English & was broadcasting Anthony Bourdain’s food show Cuba episode. Great timing, I thought. It’s the first time I’ve ever watched the show. On Cuba in Cuba. What an elitist phony ass that guy is. He’s hanging out w rich people in a well-off suburb of Havana where everyone speaks English & are artists, doctors, writers & engineers, own their own stand-alone homes w massive yards (& don’t seem to be renting out rooms) & drag race old American cars instead of using them as hired taxis. Yet he pretends as if he’s slumming it. Yeah, you’re really experiencing the real Cuba you jag off. First & last episode watched.
amusemusings 