El Chalten, Argentina – my kinda trekking town

So I’m just going to come out & say it. El Chalten in Argentina is my favorite place I’ve visited on this trip. Yes, that just happened. It’s this perfect little quaint charming town of 1,000 situated inside the Northern end of the same Parque Nacional Los Glaciares that El Calafate borders from the South. In its backyard are these unbelievable mountains dominated by Mount Fitz Roy & Cerro Torre. The hiking trails start right from this darling town. You just throw on your daypack & walk out the door. You don’t have to give a thought to transport. It’s so easy. Well not the treks but the accessibility. It’s obvious I am a massive fan of Torres del Paine. But Torres del Paine is not nearly as accessible as El Chalten. The closest town to Torres del Paine is Puerto Natales, 2hrs away. Unless you’re tent camping in the park, nearby lodging is quite expensive & it’s still a 45-75 min transport to/from the trails (or ferries leading to the trails). I would also argue the treks, mountains & views in El Chalten are just as challenging, rewarding & beautiful as those in Torres del Paine. That’s why it’s number 1.

 

Merely 30 minutes into the 4hr drive from El Calafate, the bus comes around a bend & perfectly highlighted by the sunrise 75 miles away is Fitz Roy sparkling far above everything else in sight. Fitz Roy getting increasingly large as we neared town only made the rest of the ride go pretty quickly as did passing an estancia previously owned by Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid where they chilled for a few years prior to heading to Bolivia (where they supposedly weren’t killed – I never before knew there was controversy here – now I don’t have to cry anymore at the end of that movie).

 

The town itself is only 31 years old & still small but I’m told is unsurprisingly expanding. It already has some wonderful tiny local restaurants, cervecerias, supermercados & 1 lovely spa I frequented & made friends w the owners. But the town is solely focused on the trekkers. The quarter-full bus arriving makes its required first stop at the national park’s visitors center for a debrief, trail maps & open Q&A session. They know why you’re visiting & want to make it as easy as possible & also make clear they care about preserving the park. But unlike El Calafate, which is much bigger & not shy about sticking it to you, there’s no fee in El Chalten for the SAME national park (the one where I paid $35 a day to visit on top of the expensive glacier tours). In fact, El Chalten is in a fight with the Argentine Parks system to keep it no-fee as the town itself is within the park’s borders.
After a 15min walk from the bus station to my hotel, where I had already booked for 3 nights, I immediately doubled my stay before I even ventured on a single hike.  I just had a feeling about the place. And because I’m so enamored, there’s going to be a few blog posts – based on my 3 favorite treks. The first was a hike to a vantage point w a lovely panoramic view of the area. Then after seeing that view, I of course, had to get up close & personal to Mount Fitz Roy together with Mount Poincenot, Mount Torre & the chain of mountains that surround them.

 

The view arriving to town. Was there ever a doubt I’d get stuck here?
The tiny little town backed by the big ol’ mountains
The afternoon I arrived, I did a little 2-hr hike to get me real excited for the next day
My fave part of every (clear) day (& I was blessed w a lot) was the 5 mins just as the sun is about to peek over the hills at 8:30am (right before winter, days start late). Fitz Roy is this crazy cool glittering sparkling pink. For 5 mins only. I’d purposely get up early & start hiking w my headlamp while dark so I could make it to a place (maybe not quite the best spot but I had 8-10hrs of hiking each day) so I could enjoy it. Since I visited in the offseason, I usually had trails to myself that early. But everyday there was an exception & while this amazing magical event was happening, I was firmly planted in one place to enjoy it, but a group of hikers would trod past me barely looking up from the trail. I sometimes wanted to shake them & yell that life isn’t about the destination people, it’s about the journey & you’re missing the best 5 mins of every day!!! But I’d keep my mouth shut & silently enjoy it while they beat me to the top to enjoy a lovely view – but one not quite as beautiful as the one they missed.
5 mins later. The sun is fully up. It’s still spectacular but it’s not glittering sparkling magical pink
There she is. I couldn’t see her for awhile. Nice to know where I’m headed.


Ta-dah
How happy do I look? I’m even genuinely smiling for a selfie after an all uphill 4hr hike.

There’s nothing better after a long day of hiking than digging into a rich, delicious, warming bowl of stew – or “locro” – served in a red clay earthenware bowl with white beans, sweet potatoes, hominy, carrots, beef, pancetta, onions, red peppers, garlic, paprika, cumin, etc. It reminded me so much of a French cassoulet & so I thought a lot about my bro, as we’ve enjoyed a few lovely cassoulets together in Seattle at the cafe. The locro & the most perfectly homemade empanada along w a couple of freshly brewed beers or a glass of an Argentine Malbec was the perfect end to amazing days. Did I write a post lately bitching about the food in SA? Bc that seems so preposterous right now. Perhaps Argentina will save me after all. I must say, I’ve been stomach-problem free for the last month… knock on wood.

5 thoughts on “El Chalten, Argentina – my kinda trekking town

  1. Nice to read your thoughts about El Chalten vs. Torres del Paine as unfortunately I won’t have time to see both. I’m hoping that with 4 full days in El Chalten the weather will cooperate for at least a couple. I’m really enjoying your posts and will continue to explore.

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  2. Fenomenal tu descripcion del lugar mas lindo de la patagonia. Es lindo para el alma, por los impactantes paisajes que podes observar luego de exigentes caminatas, pero lo mejor, volver y deleitarte con una gastronomia al estilo frances acompañado de un buen vino o cerveza artesanal,hacer nuevos amigos, y dormir en un colchon blandito, que mas se puede pedir.-

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