El Calafate, Argentina – blessed by glaciers

Only a 6hr bus ride from Puerto Natales, Chile, 2 of which is spent at Chile & Argentina’s border crossings in the Andes, is El Calafate, Argentina. El Calafate is known for being the closest access point to the Southern end of Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. This park, hence the name, is jam-packed with glaciers & glaciers are prettty dope so I was super excited. There are 3 biggies on the Southern end of the park, Perito Moreno, Upsala & Spegazzini. Perito Moreno is the most famous as it’s the only glacier in the world that’s advancing & of course during this time of vast climate change, scientists have no idea why. Hehe. Nature. Because it’s advancing, it goes through a repetitive process very 4-10 years in which it collides with land, dams a branch of the lake causing water levels to rise significantly, water, as it does, forces its way through forming an ice bridge that then ruptures & comes crashing down. If you’re bored, you can google a video as it’s pretty cool. Upsala is Argentina’s largest glacier & like all other glaciers in the world, it’s retreating & rapidly so it makes perfect sense to the world’s scientists but that means when viewing it on a boat, we have to keep our distance which kinda sucks as far as getting close enough to see & document calvings. The 3rd glacier, which no one ever really talks about, is the Spegazzini that’s standing strong & stable & I happen to think it’s just stunning. 
So by far the coolest thing about watching glaciers is watching large ice peaks shear off, crash to the water quite dramatically creating large waves & bobbing icebergs. If you hear it, you’ve already missed it as 3-5 seconds is the span of a glacier calving. I discovered the really big ones tend to give off a bit of a “thunder” maybe 1 second before it crashes to the water & if you’re still quite lucky, you can have your camera trained on the spot to capture it on video. I happened to catch one on video at Spegazzini by total happenstance which I think is how it must typically happen because I sat watching Perito Moreno for 5 hours – I understand that sounds incredibly boring perhaps to many but I could’ve spent much longer bc it’s just fascinating – & while I was lucky enough to see 5 glacier calvings including 2 pretty massive ones, the only one I was able to catch on video, even though my camera was always poised & ready, was a small inconsequential one that I still find super cool. So hopefully you enjoy those videos. 
A couple comments about the town of El Calafate itself that is not coincidentally located as it’s geographically blessed by the glaciers. And boy does everyone in that town know it. It’s a pretty small town w population of 20k & very obviously has a lot of money. That’s bc they charge you an arm & a leg to take these glacier tours & then on top of that, they charge you to enter the national park every single day (I’ve been at my fair share of national park’s down here & it’s real unusual for a pass to NOT be good for 3-5 days in a row & typically you get to actually do something – hike, camp – but here it’s stand & watch). As a topper, on the boat to view Upsala & Spegazzini (the only way to view them), there are professional photographers trying to get the best (cheesiest, tourist pleasing) shots of people to sell them afterwards (I forcefully declined when offered & kept my distance). El Calafate is well aware they have a goldmine on their hands & does it’s best to extract its pound of flesh from you during your visit. So while the town, resplendent with nice restaurants, ice vodka bars that I’ve only otherwise seen in trash Vegas, gourmet chocolate, cheese & jam shops, lovely clothing stores, spas, etc, pretty closely resembles a Rocky Mountain ski town, its charm was lost on me & it wasn’t a place I wanted to linger for long. So I spent 3 days visiting the glaciers which really were stunning & then promptly left for another town that happened to take a starkly different approach… and one that I loved. Would I return to El Calafate? If in 4 years there was another massive rupture at Perito Moreno due & I was in the area & could be reasonably assured of timing so I’d get to witness it live (yeah right), I would probably swing by to check it out. Otherwise, I’m good. 

Perito Moreno Glacier calving: https://youtu.be/bGArnwgRXvc

Spegazzini Glacier calving: https://youtu.be/aAOAI1vj270

Perito Moreno, 60m high

For a bit of perspective, the viewing balconies
The site of the last rupture
It was quite windy & chilly on those balconies

Upsala Glacier, 70m high, on the right & massive iceberg in foreground

Spegazzini Glacier, 135m high


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